• Because the cement dries to a hard consistency, be sure you have enough time to complete the whole cementing process.
• If the cement begins to harden in the tub it can be thinned with equal amounts of boiled linseed oil and pure turpentine. Be careful to avoid quick drying linseed oil, as it will not give you sufficient time to work with the panels.
• If you find the cement to be too thin for your particular purpose, it can be thickened with small amounts of whiting. If you thicken the mixture too much, at this point it should be thinned with more boiled linseed oil only.
• When using heavily textured glasses such as antique crackle and ripples, keep in mind that it will be difficult if not impossible to remove all the cement in the deep undercuts and fissures in the glass. If this presents a problem, you may want to mask off the glass with contact paper or masking tape.
• Glue chip and sandblasted glass can sometimes pick up a dark color from the cement. This may be avoided by using the Inland Natural (gray) Cement or you can mask off the glass. This natural colored cement should also be used with zinc and brass cames if the panel is not going to have a black patina application, since its color more closely resembles that of zinc/brass.
• Since most black patina contains small amounts of hydrochloric (aka muriatic) acid, don’t be surprised if you see the patina bubbling around the cement. This is the acid reacting with the cement. The reaction will cease when the panel is washed with hot water and a detergent. Dry the panel with a clean, soft cloth while it is still warm from the hot water rinse to make the panel sparkling clean.

Inland cement is the only product of its kind that is made specifically for stained glass windows. The cement will set up hard but will still allow for natural expansion and contraction. Some people may object to the hardness of the cement saying it will make the window difficult to repair. The vast majority of windows requiring repair need it due to sags and cracks resulting from improper cementing, insufficient support, poor workmanship, or low quality weak lead. If a window cemented with Inland Cement should ever need repair, you may find the following helpful:

1. First, try soaking the window in a liberal application of boiled linseed oil (available from better hardware stores). This can help to loosen the old glazing compounds. Let it sit for 4-6 hours, but take appropriate precautions when using linseed oils. There can be extreme fire hazards!
2. If the above does not work adequately, apply muriatic acid (also available from better hardware stores) with an eye dropper next to the came around the area needing attention. The muriatic acid will attach and "honeycomb" the whiting in the cement making the cement weak and brittle. The window should then be quite easy to pull apart and repair. Wipe up excess acid with a paper towel or an old towel and dispose of properly.
3. Muriatic acid is also dangerous. Read and follow all directions on the container. Avoid breathing vapors. Because zinc, copper and brass cames are more sturdy, you probably won’t have any difficulty cutting the cames at the solder joints and pulling the panel apart for repair. Do not attempt to use muriatic acid on zinc cames as the zinc will be dissolved by the acid.