Soldering Basics for Metal Cames |
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Lead came construction requires a different soldering technique than that used for copper foil. You can use the same iron and flux, but the preparation and actual soldering will differ. You will be soldering only the joints, instead of running an entire bead. With a little knowledge and some practice, you will be able to make perfect solder joints on lead or other metals. | ||
Getting Started | ||
First, make sure that all joints are in line with each other and butt against each other with no gaps. Use a triangle and/or square to check the
square of the panel and make sure that your lines run true across the panel in all directions. Make any adjustments that are needed. Thoroughly clean surface oxidation from intersections with a soft brass
brush. | ||
Soldering | ||
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Begin by holding the solder on the joint. Move in to the joint across the glass, not from across the came. The wide face of the tip should be down toward the joint. Coming into the joint over the glass prevents leaving a solder trail on the lead came at one end of the solder joint. Techniques like these are the signature of an accomplished craftsperson.
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Finishing | ||
| Lead projects need to be finished by applying a cement. The cement will weatherproof the project and secure the glass in the channels. This step is necessary on any came project to ensure a strong, secure panel. Cement is easily applied to the panel by using a small scrub brush to work the cement under the channels both on the front and back of the project. After the cementing process is complete, whiting sprinkled over the entire surface and allowed to absorb excess moisture for a few minutes. Using a stiff brush, vigorously brush the lead channels, removing excess cement from the glass. The brushing process allows a natural patina to form on the lead, so it is not necessary to apply patina to the project. Allow the project to dry thoroughly, usually for a few days, before installing or hanging the project. | ||
The most desirable solder to use when constructing a lead project is 50/50. It flows out from the point of contact, leaving a nice joint. Do a "lead" test to check the heat of your iron. Allow the iron tip to heat for several minutes. Then, place the flat face of the tip on a scrap of lead. If the lead melts, the iron is too hot. Lower the temperature or change to a lower temperature tip. (This is where a rheostat iron is great.) Now test the tip with 50/50 solder to make sure it can melt it. If it does, your tip temperature is adjusted correctly. If not, raise tip temperature just until you melt the solder. Recheck the tip temperature and test it on the lead again. Now flux all the joints on your panel.
Melt only a small amount of solder and move the tip in a slight circular motion allowing it to flow out over the joint a distance equal
to the width of the came being used. Pull the iron tip straight up off the center of the joint. The desired end result is that intersections of the lead cames are not visible through the solder and the solder on them is smooth, not beaded. You should be able to run a fingernail over the came and into the soldered joint without it catching or clicking. Solder the joints on the front of the project. Then turn the project over and repeat the same process on the back.| PAGE 14 | Continue | Back 1 Page | Solder Manual Index |