| Soldering Irons | ![]() |
Choosing a Soldering IronThere is a lot to consider when you choose an iron for stained glass. The handle should be heat resistant and comfortable for you to hold. You may be holding it for several hours at a time, so consider the weight and balance of the iron. Carefully check the wattage of the iron that you are considering. It must be able to continuously generate enough heat to melt all of the types of solder you plan to work with and be compatible with the type of construction you use (i.e.-copper, foil, lead came, rebar, etc.). You will need an iron that is at least 60 watts, with chisel type tips, and a way to control the temperature.
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Types of Temperature Controls | ||
| A broad range of soldering irons are available. Most irons, which we will call "conventional irons," are made with wound wire heaters in a barrel with mica insulation. They are often inexpensive, but they do not offer the ability to control operating temperature. A separate temperature controlling device must be used with these irons to achieve the best results. There are three types of soldering irons that are easier to use for stained glass projects, because they allow you to control temperatures more effectively: | ||
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| Irons with temperature controlled tips |
Irons used with temperature controlling devices | Irons with ceramic heaters |
Irons with Temperature Controlled Tips | ||
![]() These irons are supplied with an internal regulator in the tip that does not allow the iron to exceed a predetermined temperature. An example would be a 600oF tip. The iron heats to that temperature then "shuts off." When heat is required, the iron "turns on" again. Tips are available in predetermined temperatures up to 800oF. These irons are easy for beginners to use, because the temperature is automatically maintained for you, however, as your skills increase, you may prefer to control the amount of heat yourself for different soldering situations. The limited amount of control may become frustrating as your soldering skills increase. With this type of iron you will likely encounter "cold spots" where the iron will not melt your solder. These cold spots occur when heat is being drawn out of the tip faster than it is being replenished. You will need an iron with a minimum of 100 watts. | ||
Ceramic Heating Element Irons | ||
These irons are relatively new to the stained glass trade. They are made with highly efficient ceramic heating elements. Like a ceramic room heater, they produce a consistent temperature using less electrical wattage during operation. When initially heating and when reheating during "recovery" periods, they can draw a "burst" of power exceeding 100 watts and then efficiently reduce electrical consumption, often below 60 watts, during the soldering process. The result is efficiency and economy. A remarkable feature of ceramic heater irons is they generally reach operating temperature in less than 60 seconds. Of the three types of
non-conventional irons, the ceramic heater type best maintains consistent tip temperature over extended periods of time. Problems with slow heat recovery generally don't exist. A ceramic heater iron offers excellent flexibility and can be used with a temperature controller if you like. | ||
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